Brand new to the market as of 3-12-09! Every 1967, 1968 and 1969 Cougar, Cyclone, Torino and Mustang needs this kit even if you are not "yet" leaking fluid. These little "O" rings are always "rock hard" after 40 plus years because the original o-rings are composed of a BASIC nitrile compound which after several years the absorption of brake fluid will change the molecular structure of the nitrile, causing it to harden, contract & then crack . Our O-rings are made from EPDM (Ethylene Propylene 70 Durometer) which is designed SPECIFICALLY to withstand chemical degradation caused by prolonged exposure to brake fluid. This is a serious safety issue that you really should be concerned about. We custom made the proportioning valve spring from the exotic alloy INCONEL, which will never rust and will retain its factory specification compression strength many times longer than the originals. If your original spring is still intact, it has for sure lost its memory many years ago. The original units were never designed to last 40-50 years. This kit carries an unlimited lifetime warranty against material failure.

Shown here are the 8 pieces of the kit for your Cougar / Mustang / Torino / Fairlane power disc brake proportioning valve and distribution block. The 1967 version not only looks different inside and out but the cylindrical proportioning valve will be located near the rear differential instead of on the driver side rear inner apron as found on the 1968-1969 models. Notice the red dot, this color code denotes the EPDM composition.

The spring included in this kit will never rust. Often when you open up an original valve for the first time the only trace of the old spring will be a blob of rusty paste.

This is what your assembly looks like on a 68-69 Mustang or Cougar. The Torino car line has different bends in the lines and a different bracket but the two components are the same.

Don't even start this project until you have a quality, name brand set of line / flair nut wrenches in hand. Even with the proper tools some lines will be a challenge to remove.

To get this line off, wrap a rag around the cylinder to prevent scaring the brass with the jaws of your vise grips. It will want to slip on you so two pairs of vice grips will be needed in most cases. Even then the wrench will often want to round off the fitting so you may want to slip a 6 point box end wrench over the line to get to the fitting. Go borrow a quality wrench if you do not have one, if you use a "budget" tool you will just frustrate yourself and ruin parts.

Here is a hint as to what we will find inside...

This outer "O" ring is not really a seal but a cover designed to keep contaminants out of the weep hole. The weep hole is there for when your internal seals go bad and the fluid needs a route of escape.

Very little of the original spring was intact on this one as you can see below...

Getting this piston out of its housing can be very difficult depending on how much corrosion is present. On units where the piston moves freely you will be able to insert the blunt end of a drill bit in the valve to push the piston out. On units that are froze up you will be tempted to "tap" on the drill bit to push the piston out. Very light tapping would be appropriate but what you cannot see until you get the piston removed is exactly what you are pushing on. If you tap too hard you will be destroying the little rubber ball housed in the white plastic hollow end. The rubber ball is resilient enough but the three delicate brass tabs that hold the ball in place can easily be broken off and the valve will become useless. Soaking the cylinder for weeks on end and using compressed air is one method that has been successful, Electrolydic Derusting is another method worth a try. So far the best solution we have found it using a grease gun to force the piston out, check out this thread at mercurycougar.net to learn more. We would like to hear from those of you that have tried other methods and had success.

You can faintly see the rubber ball in this picture. This is what you are pushing on so be gentle!

These seals were still actually pliable, often they will be cracked and hard. We never find good springs, 40 or more years of being imersed in brake fluid will destroy them everytime. This piston can be easily cleaned up with fine steel wool.

The distribution block is much easier to get the piston out of because you can tap it out from the backside without damaging any fragile parts. In the picture below I am using the blunt end of a size appropriate drill bit to push the piston out.

Below are all eight pieces laid out next to the positions they were taken from. Fine steel wool and patience will get these dirty old brass parts looking like new.

Thank you for visiting our sales! Since 1990 we have dismantled over 1000 1967 - 1979 Mercury Cougars as well as having assimilated many private collections into our ever growing inventory. Since 2001 we have been rapidly expanding our reproduction and restored parts inventory to a level never before achieved. Our latest endeavor has been to document every part ever found on a 1967 - 1973 Cougar on our website, down to the most insignificant nut bolt and clips. Each week we list several items here on from our used, NOS, restored and reproduction inventory. Often these items are listed at a discount from what you will find them for on our online catalog. As you peruse through the pictures below you will see a sampling of some of the many parts we choose to list here on every week.

If you need to contact us for any reason, we can be reached by phone at 503-463-1130 or by email at
westcoast@classic-cougar.com .

Thank you for your continued support!
Don Rush - West Coast Classic Cougar

Click on Image to Enlarge!

Don Rush 503-463-1130 westcoast@classic-cougar.com

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